Behind a wooden door with narrow slits at the Selman, Assyl serves pure Moroccan cooking in an elegant room, with live music, dancers and, as the high point, the horses out of the dark.
Two addresses in the Marrakech Medina with no meat on the menu, almost every dish marked vegan, vegetarian or pescatarian, and fully plant-based versions on request.
A torch outside a door in the Marrakech Medina, Latin music a few steps inside, Mexican plates passed across the table and dinner on the roof: an evening at Azulik Inla.
On the Route d'Amizmiz, the Bennani family built a palace around its Arabian horses: an eighty-metre pool that leads to Assyl and the stables, a Moroccan dinner that ends outside with the horses, and Africa's only Chenot Spa in a building of its own.
A white curtain with a single painted character, a handcrafted counter with nine seats, and a chef from Osaka who moved his restaurant from Fès to a design-district street in Sidi Ghanem, omakase, tatami room and all.
Bill Willis called his medina house Dar Noujoum, the house of stars. The rooftop restaurant that took the name serves monkfish tagine and saffron mayonnaise under Salgado photographs, seven riads above the old city, and it is open to anyone who books.
A restored rabbi's house in the Kasbah holds seven thousand objects of adornment from across the world, three thousand of them on show, opening with a horse named Mansour. Le MAP is Marrakech's quietest argument that jewelry is a form of history.
In a restored riad near the Medersa Ben Youssef, the most ordinary drink in Morocco is served twelve ways, one for each region of the country. A quiet argument about time, place, and how a nation can be tasted rather than described.
A facade in Marrakech tells you nothing. The district behind it tells you everything. A neighborhood-by-neighborhood guide to where to stay, from the Medina to the Palmeraie to the open country beyond, and the kind of traveller each quarter quietly suits.
Behind a discreet door in the southern medina, Dar Society has turned a thirteen-room riad into a living gallery of contemporary Moroccan art, with a David Toutain rooftop table on the way.
Behind an unmarked blue door off Boulevard Mansour Eddahbi, a 1930s pétanque club has reopened as the most cinematic outdoor bar in Guéliz, run by the man who has spent fifteen years giving Marrakech back its lost addresses.
MapMarrakech holds several cities at once, and its essential sights are the way to read them. From the Almohad Koutoubia to the gardens beyond the walls, a curated guide to what is genuinely worth your time, grouped by what it is.